Micro-SIM (3FF) to Mini-SIM (2FF) Adapter

Given the amount of people might be just switching phones using Micro-SIM, it is good to know if you can go back to your old phone in case if you drop your Gorilla Glass 2 eye candy phone.

So here is a pictorial how-to which will give you some idea as to how to make the adapter yourself if you have purchased a new Micro-SIM which comes with the full size SIM card.

Here is a comparison side by side:

We want to put the Mini-SIM into it’s own full SIM and deck it on top of the Micro-SIM in the full SIM:

(Notice I use rubber band to lock it in place, you can use tape too)

Now, we want to mark it with a mechanical pencil for the best result, run the pencil along the Mini-SIM’s edge as much as you can until it is as close as you can get to the edge of it.

After running it, it should look like this when you remove the Mini-SIM with full SIM:

Put the Mini-SIM on top of the outline you have made, run the pencil over the missing area:

Cutting time!

I cut it out to a rectangle first like so:

Cut out the key lock corner:

After the edges are smoothed (you can run the blade over the rough corners couple of times)

Pictures of comparison to old Mini-SIM:

For fun and giggles, I put it in the full SIM for Mini-SIM to see the accuracy:

I would love to take a picture of it sitting in my phone but my phone is my camera.

Let me know if this helps you and feel free to ask any questions if I left out details.

Morris Lee


Adding 3rd WiFi Antenna to Aspire 5920G lvl(4/10)


So I have showed you here how to simply upgrade your wireless card in the 5920G *IF* it is using 2 antennas like the original intel WiFi 3945ABG, what if you want to upgrade to say intel 4965AGN, intel 5300 or anything requires 3 antennas instead? Don’t worry, I got you covered here 😀

However, you must be warned, this mod is slightly more challenging, as you will need to crack open more parts of the laptop.

Here is my new chart of modification hardness (1-10):

1. Simplest, unscrew a few things involved, and simply put it back together again with a screw driver.

2. Simple, but requires some more effort for some parts of the modification such as more than just a screw driver is required.

3. Still simple, but can require more than a screw driver and may need some improvising tips I have provided.

4. Can be slightly challenging, requires all the above and specialty tools and materials.

5. Challenging, requiring all the above but for improvising tips and materials I have used may not be easy to come by, other possible materials or methods are up to your creativity.

6. Advanced, skilled hands on experiences required(my previous mods may provide the most applicable experiences).

7. Challenging advanced, semi-professional, has been following my modifications and have complete up to anything qualified as level 5 is preferred.

8. Advanced improviser, close-to professional that has done couple level 5’s and 6’s some sort of circuitry background is preferred.

9. Professional, fan of my mods and has been following all my mods, completion of from 75-90% of my modifications is strongly suggested.

10. Pro-Processioned, HARDCORE fan of my modifications and has done all or similar mods on different machines, access to multiple soldering tools or cutting and drilling tools is strongly suggested. **first with completion of this level with prove using pictures or videos may win prized on selected level 10 mods!!**

The above levels will be labeled in the title like: lvl(7/10)

Without more babbling! Lets get our hands busy!

What you need:

Philips Screw driver shaped like this +
Old credit card or plastic card
Thick Double-sided tap (ones with foam in between the sticky sides)
Spare internal wireless antenna with the clip-on notch
A pair of sharp tweezers

First, we need to do some disassembling,
Remove the backplate and screws that are circled in red too.

With those screws removed, we can pop off the power button plate like so


After that is done, we need to crack open the screen’s frame, staring with the rubber tabs
Peel them off using a pair of sharp tweezers and put them on the waxxed surface like the ones stickers comes off from or you can make your own by rubbing wax on a piece of paper until even and smooth. This is to keep the tabs in the mint condition.

Here is a picture of mine all kept nicely on the waxed paper from the double sided tape

make sure all 4 rubber tabs and the 2 plastic tabs right by the lid latch like so:

Now, we need to pop it open using the plastic card from the edge of the lid (TRY not to break any clips inside)

Now, the laptop should look something like this(I have the spare antenna lying on the keyboard)

Now, we can install the antenna! we can insert the antenna in this hole:

If done right, you can pull it out from the bottom right beside where the fan is, it may take a few tries

Hopefully the length of the antenna is long enough so you can attach it to the card

Following the left original antenna and double sided tape, I stick it just above the original white one (try not to have the metals touching.)

Tuck it in!

Putting it back together is as simple as snapping the screen frame and the power button panel back on and screw all the screws back. Remember to put the rubber and plastic tabs back on the screws for the screen frame!

Morris Lee

Upgrade Aspire 5920G (Santa Rosa) Wireless to N

Not too sure why there are not much talk about the WiFi Link 5100 or 5300 compatibility for Santa Rosa with PM965 chipset, so now, I put it to a test for everyone! Guess what? it works!

This is the card, Intel WiFi Link 5100 (looks cheap……)

Remove the 9 screws to remove the back plate

the corner by the RAM close to the battery compartment, you will find the old Intel 3945 or 4965 sitting (image shows that the antennas are pulled off, forgot to take a picture of it, but you can just pull them off vertically, but gently)

After the 2 top screws are removed, you will see that the card will lift up by itself, don’t worry, it is not going into an erection. You can now safely pull it out from the angle it lift up to.

What it should look like when it is pulled off

Comparison between the old 3945 and the new 5100(5100 looks kind of cheap eh?)

slide in the new card like the angle you pulled the old one off

while pushing it down flat, screw it in place

After you have screwed it in, attach the 2 antennas like it was attached to the old card before, you can just push it on,they are clip on antennas.

Woohoo!! 300Mbps, if you don’t have the full speed, it is ok, sometimes it will lower it when it is not needed, just make sure the “Channel Width” is set to auto in your router (image from my DIR-615 D-Link router)

Also make sure you go into Device Manager (run devmgmt.msc) and under “Network Adapters”, find the card name, double click and go to the “Advanced” tab and change “802.11n Channel Width for band 2.4” and “802.11n Channel Width for band 5.2” both to “Auto”.

Morris Lee

Add Bluetooth to Aspire 5920G

** update **

I found a useful Service Manual for the 5920G enjoy!

This is a DIY guide to install an internal USB bluetooth on the Aspire 5920 model, the physical USB Bluetooth installation instructions may apply to other machines with one or more Mini PCI-E slot/s and internal space.

Warning! Do this in your own risk, please observe other similar modifications and understand your own skills on these tiny operations, unplug the computer and eject the battery for safer working enviroment. REQUIRES A STEADY HAND for the physical part. I am not able to hold responsible for any damages to your own systems.


Table of Contents:

1a. Suggested Tools
1b. Materials

2a. Make the Mini PCI-E to USB Pins
2b. Plug it into the Mini PCI-E slot
2c. Make the holder to keep the pins steady in place
2d. Insert the USB Bluetooth

3a. Install the driver
3b. Install the Bluetooth remap patch
4a. Remarks
5a. Reference
6a. Contact

1a. Suggested tools:

Plier/s (sharp ended)
Piler/s with clip and hold (to hold on to tiny opjects for soldering)
Soldering gun

1b. Materials

Aspire 5920 (models with Intel ReadyBoost might require the removal of the disk)
A short USB extansion cord
2 or more bobby pins
Normal transparent plastic tape
Paper clip

2a.Make the Mini PCI-E to USB pins

Here we make the Pins that will attach to the Mini PCI-E slot without needing to solder the USB cord on to the machine.


Bobby pins from your sister/s or mom or from places like the dollar store will do the job. Cut it in about the length of your finger nail.


bend the bobby pin to the shape of a mini crowbar (about 90 to 100 degress).


Peel the skin on each cable in the USB cord, twist the cable around the bobby pin’s bent corner.


Clamp the bobby pin to the pliers for soldering


Soldered, notice the melting of the plastic skin on the cable, should be normal. MAKE SURE IT COOLS DOWN BEFORE YOU WORK ON IT AGAIN

2b. Plug it into the Mini PCI-E slot


To plug the the pins in, make sure you take a look at both these locations
http://www.spielme.com/spiel/files/images/pinout.jpg Mini PCI-E pins
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Types_of_USB_connector Pin configurations
Noticed I stuck a piece of tape (2 pieces tapped together and cut into the same width as the bobby pins) to prevent the bobby pins to conduct both pins where it is placed (also to keep the pins in place), you have to be very careful for the first 2 pins as they are the power, you might short the computer anytime if you don’t have the current blocked.
Also make sure all the soldered ends are not touching each other, notices where I put a piece of plastic between the green and the white cable since the soldered section are closer with each other.

2c. Make the holder to keep the pins steady in place


This is a holder made with a paper clip, bend the circles for the screws accordingly to the two screw holes in the laptop.
The screws ARE THINNER then the ones used for CD-ROM’s, there is a standard type used for laptops.


Now the cable should be more stable, less chance for the pins to get pulled out while carrying.

2d. Insert the USB Bluetooth


disassemble the Bluetooth device like so


Tape the Bluetooth PCB board so it is safe from shorting other chip/devices in the laptop (top and botton)


The USB out, plug the USB Bluetooth in now.


Insert the USB Bluetooh under the metal looking plastic, just the space behind the card reader.


It should fit, cut out cunks that is in the way of the screw, there are plenty of height space, so the thickness of the USB port should be no problem.


Make sure things that are not suppose to be touching are not touching, then close the laptop.

3a. Install the driver

Start up your computer, if it does not power up, reopen it, make sure nothing is touching. If nothing is touching and not turning on, make sure you have the battery pulled out and the power unplugged for about 10 seconds for the memory to clear again, try booting then.

When it DOES boot up, you should see new device found, install the driver accordingly like usual.

3b. Install the Bluetooth remap patch

Once the driver has been installed correctly, bluetooth working fine, time for the coolest thing. Remember your useless Bluetooth button? let’s make it enable disable the USB Bluetooth we have in right now. To work around the Launch Manager that controls which button’s job, we change the Internet button to the bluetooth button, therefore, when you add a function to the internet button in Launch Manager, it you are changing the bluetooth button function. Since the Internet Button is regonized in windows to open up your default Internet Browser, this button should remain functional as well.

Here is the latest patch (V10.1) I have made for the Launch Manager (for 2.0.10, one click install, anything older requires you to exit launch manager prior to install), download and install the patch, you will see the taskbar icon has changed to the one in the installer’s screenshot.

you can find the latest patches here
Morris’ Launch Manager V10.1 x86+64-bit.exe

New Launch Manager Icon

New Launch Manager Icon

After the patch has been installed, open device manager by running devmgmt.msc or under System Properties.


Locate your USB bluetooth device in Device Manager, right click and click propertise.


Go to the Details tab, select Hardware Ids, highlight the first item in the list, press “Ctrl + c” to copy the text.

Navigate to “C:BT” right click and edit all the “BT.cmd” file under the “current”, “disable”, “enable” folders


The line in the red circle, replace it using “Ctrl + v” to paste, notice the extra empty line is added, remove it so it looks like before, KEEP THE QUOTES.

Once all three BT.cmd’s has been modified and saved, the changes should take effect immediately when you press the Bluetooth button.

4a. Remarks:

– My Bluetooth device is Belkin F8T003xx1

– Enabling the Bluetooth device took away about 30 minutes of battery on my laptop

– This was my third try to make the Mini PCI-E to USB converter

– Using the internal Mini PCI-E to USB was inspired by the EeePC internal USB device MOD.

– Both bluetooth remap installer patch are packaged and configured by me

– This DIY guide is written by me.

– The primary opjective for this guide is to share my findings to worldwide. so others can follow, and no need to waste time for trial and error like I had to.

5a. References:
http://www.spielme.com/spiel/files/images/pinout.jpg Mini PCI-E pins
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Types_of_USB_connector Pin configuration Figure

6a. Contact

If you have other questions, please reply on the bottom here, http://www.theacerguy.com or Email me at morrismurphy@gmail.com

Morris Lee
Revision 1.1 Jan 2009 (first edition can be found here) Read the rest of this entry »

Aspire 5920 GPU Swap/upgrade

This is a DIY guide to replace the graphics card in the Aspire 5920 model.

Warning! Do this in your own risk, please observe other similar modifications and understand your own skills on these tiny operations, unplug the computer and eject the battery for safer working enviroment. REQUIRES A STEADY HAND for the physical part. I am not able to hold responsible for any damages to your own systems.


Table of Contents:

1a. Suggested Tools
1b. Materials
2a. Open the back plate
2b. Replacing the card
2c. Close the case
3a. Install the driver (ATi)
3b. Install the driver (NVIDIA)
4a. Remarks
5a. Reference
6a. Contact

1a. Suggested tools:

philips screw driver

1b. Materials

Aspire 5920 (With 8600m GS or GT, intel x3100 does NOT have the MXM slot)
Thermal Paste/Pad
MXM Type II card with Acer bios preloaded.

2a. Opening the back plate

First make sure you unplugged the laptop, pulled out the battery. There are 9 screws needs to be unscrewed to open the back plate they are indicated by the small red circled locations as follows:

Once all the screws are removed, you should be able to easily remove the back plate revealing the heat sink, graphics card, RAM, etc.

2b. Replacing the card

The card’s compatibility can be tricky, but if you chose the ones with Acer vBios preloaded, it shouldn’t be a problem. Which one is the graphics card? yes, the laptop graphics cards are very different then the desktop editions, you can be amazed by how small the card is compared to a desktop edition. The graphics card is shown in the image below:
Locate the 4 screws that holds the graphics card in place, while holding down the graphics card(avoiding the graphics card from poping out when you are unscrewing it) unscrew all 4 screws.
Remove the 4 screws and slowly let the graphics rise like shown:
Pull out the card
Here is a picture of the old and the new card
Looking at the heatsink, there is the old thermal pad, you can still use this one if you are swaping with a 8XXX series, they have the same thickness to the core, but if you have something with thinner core(usually smaller nm technology such as the ATi Radeon HD3650) you need to either use ALOT of thermal paste or a thicker version of the thermal pads, thermal pads are harder to locate in a local store.

Here is a picture of the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste

If you have metal frame with your new card, you can remove it simply by pushing it out
Insert the new card in the angle you have pulled out your old one
Noticed that i kept the thermal paste from the shape ai squeezed it out
Push the card down
Screw the card in place
2c. Close the case

Close the case as you opened it, check all the 9 screws are screwed back in.

3a. Install the driver (ATi)

You will be able to retrieve the driver from here(this is the ATi Vista driver provided directly for Acer laptops from Acer)
you can also find drivers from here but these have touble playing HD-DVD or Bluray, but if you just care about games this will be better.

3b. Install the driver (NVIDIA)

You will be able to retrieve the driver from here(this is the NVIDIA Vista driver provided directly for Acer laptops from Acer)
you can also find drivers from here but these have touble playing HD-DVD or Bluray, but if you just care about games this will be better.

4a. Remarks:

– I got my card off ebay

– My card had Acer bios preloaded, a blind flash may be required if you have another brand

– I am actually using ATi Mobility Radeon HD3650, since the 8600m GT had issues.

– This DIY guide is written by me.

– The primary opjective for this guide is to share my findings to worldwide. so others can follow, and no need to waste time for trial and error like I had to.

Link to the picture gallery

5a. References:
http://www.laptopvideo2go.com MXM upgrade info can be found here

6a. Contact

If you have other questions, please reply on the bottom here,www.theacerguy.com or Email me at morrismurphy@gmail.com

Shrinking Mini Bluetooth USB dongles

Well, well, the title explains itself, sure you want to get Bluetooth for your beloved Aspire One and not worrying it sticking out “injuring” the USB port while traveling, Or maybe you are just too scared to crack open $300 USD or more electronics. How does cracking open a cheap $10-20 Bluetooth and do a “DIY”, wait a second! did you say DIY? YES, you can “do it yourself!”.

Tools you need:

High precision ruler


A Mini USB Bluetooth dongle
Hard Plastic packaging
Paper Clip (if your bluetooth PCB board also drilled through)
Double-sided tape (to hold the PCB on the plastic)

You may see the following dongles to be a “fine” solution to many laptops, but for Aspire One, it still is pretty gigantic.

How about shorting the necessary length? make it into something like THIS:

Oh, sure it looks not much different, but here is a reality comparison:
The profile is now just .4 cm(stock was .8 cm) which is significantly shortened!

How is this possible you may ask, that is why I am discussing this, the casing itself actually contains a lot of empty space, there is also a slight thickness that just pads between the board and the inside of the USB port.

By using materials like this:
With a little of creativity and some 3 dimensional logic shape thinking, I cut out the shapes and bent them so they hold just the board.

Fortunately, there are 2 small holes that paperclip can just go through, I manage to pin it through and wrap it around to allow easier removal and structure support.

Here is the bluetooth in action on my Aspire One:
(actual feel looks even better then the image)

As a matter of fact, I prefer the current look, I love lights on laptops and the original casing was a darker plastic which blocked magnificent amount of the LED intensity, however, the plastic packaging material is completely transparent allowing the LED to show off its full potential!

This is just the project I did that I’d like to share to all!

Aspire One A110 2.5′ HDD SATA MOD – IT WORKS!


Bench mark setup:

Windows 7 build beta 7000
WD Scorpio Blue 250 GB SATA 5400rpm



unfortunately, the 1.8 40GB HDD I have purchased has failed on me(there goes my half life 1 saves along with lovely Windows 7)

I have been called crazy the past, never this crazy, but I am purposely putting myself in the same position again.

I intentionally wanted to publish the next How-to on multi-touch on Aspire One for Windows, but with the funeral to my petite plug-and-play ZIF hard drive, that has to be post-phoned.

I suppose purchasing another 1.8 HDD is simply impracticable at this moment, sacrificing the whole day of research on installing 2.5 inch HDD instead (I have a 250GB lying around) then I finally found the most “detailed”Replacing the SSD in the Acer Aspire One guide(translated by google)

seems possible from several sources, I am making some progress too. without further ado, I shall show you what I have got!

Alright, it is done! Just install Windows 7 under 20 minutes(from USB HDD full install) everything running smoothly, barely any difference on battery for me, took one hour off my 10hour battery.

To do this mod, you are to be ready for any consequences may happen if you do not have enough experiences in modding such small electronics


open a normal SATA cable for desktop drives like this, cut it so that you have some length to work with.



same thing for the power cord, it maybe a little harder.


Here I have both of them attached together with 2 plastics sandwich the 2 connectors with thin double sided tape


Note that I kept some length for the pins for easier soldering

for the power cord, you only need the middle 2, you can pull out the other 2 cables.


A look when it is attached


the where about the SATA connections are


Now, where the swiss knife is pointing, resistor R364, solder the 2 ends together with solder, no need to purchase a resistor.

Right under my Swiss army knife is the location where contact has to be made to provide the necessary 5 volts to the 2.5″ hard drive, this is kind of a bad news as to I am loosing battery, the ZIF hard drive only uses 3.3V.


Remove the plastic at the following red circled locations with a Diagonal pliers, use knife or preferably a chisel to remove left overs. (note: the rectangular shape is preferred to be removed, but do not scrape too much off, it is the location for the rubber stand, as it might sink in when you apply excessive pressure on the palm rest.)
You see the red circled location where R364 is, just bridge them with a blob of solder will do. (Click on the image to view full size)

This is what should be soldered

(image thanks to Windraver)

For the power, we solder one of 4, 5, 6 for ground and one of 7, 8, 9 for +5v(since they are all connected internally on the harddrive board, but you can solder the all 6 pins(or even all pins) for better strength)


Please check the order of the pin numbers from this image

soldered on, try using a Solder sucker to clean out the solder acer filled up preventing easier modding, once the solder is removed, a tiny whole will reveal, inserting the small pins on the SATA connectors will be easier.


Once it is done, make a piece of plastic to prevent the harddrive’s board from damaging or conducting any unwanted circuits. Put everything back together, it should work now!

One note, I tried having both the HDD and the SSD installed, but the SSD no longer shows up in the BIOS. so I left it as is.

Alright, I have a little update on my pretty 5920(well, it has gotten prettier)

ohh, I love the LED’s lights~~

I can’t finish all these today, I need to get some sleep, perhaps I can get up tomorrow or the next day and finish this off, once it is done, I will fill in the gaps I have left unexplained. (to be honest, I can’t find a source with a picture clear enough about the R364 bridge, or has explained clearly)

As a matter of fact, I finished it today, I was waiting for Chinese new year, that gave me a couple of hours to work on this. Yeah, my Aspire One is back on running Windows 7 again!

I have challenged tnkgrl’s 1.8′ HDD mod

Happy Chinese New year