Bench mark setup:
Windows 7 build beta 7000
WD Scorpio Blue 250 GB SATA 5400rpm
unfortunately, the 1.8 40GB HDD I have purchased has failed on me(there goes my half life 1 saves along with lovely Windows 7)
I have been called crazy the past, never this crazy, but I am purposely putting myself in the same position again.
I intentionally wanted to publish the next How-to on multi-touch on Aspire One for Windows, but with the funeral to my petite plug-and-play ZIF hard drive, that has to be post-phoned.
I suppose purchasing another 1.8 HDD is simply impracticable at this moment, sacrificing the whole day of research on installing 2.5 inch HDD instead (I have a 250GB lying around) then I finally found the most “detailed”
Replacing the SSD in the Acer Aspire One guide(translated by google) seems possible from several sources, I am making some progress too. without further ado, I shall show you what I have got!
Alright, it is done! Just install Windows 7 under 20 minutes(from USB HDD full install) everything running smoothly, barely any difference on battery for me, took one hour off my 10hour battery.
To do this mod, you are to be ready for any consequences may happen if you do not have enough experiences in modding such small electronics
open a normal SATA cable for desktop drives like this, cut it so that you have some length to work with.
same thing for the power cord, it maybe a little harder.
Here I have both of them attached together with 2 plastics sandwich the 2 connectors with thin double sided tape
Note that I kept some length for the pins for easier soldering
for the power cord, you only need the middle 2, you can pull out the other 2 cables.
A look when it is attached
the where about the SATA connections are
Now, where the swiss knife is pointing, resistor R364, solder the 2 ends together with solder, no need to purchase a resistor.
Right under my Swiss army knife is the location where contact has to be made to provide the necessary 5 volts to the 2.5″ hard drive, this is kind of a bad news as to I am loosing battery, the ZIF hard drive only uses 3.3V.
Remove the plastic at the following red circled locations with a Diagonal pliers, use knife or preferably a chisel to remove left overs. (note: the rectangular shape is preferred to be removed, but do not scrape too much off, it is the location for the rubber stand, as it might sink in when you apply excessive pressure on the palm rest.)
You see the red circled location where R364 is, just bridge them with a blob of solder will do. (Click on the image to view full size)
This is what should be soldered
For the power, we solder one of 4, 5, 6 for ground and one of 7, 8, 9 for +5v(since they are all connected internally on the harddrive board, but you can solder the all 6 pins(or even all pins) for better strength)
Please check the order of the pin numbers from this image
soldered on, try using a Solder sucker to clean out the solder acer filled up preventing easier modding, once the solder is removed, a tiny whole will reveal, inserting the small pins on the SATA connectors will be easier.
Once it is done, make a piece of plastic to prevent the harddrive’s board from damaging or conducting any unwanted circuits. Put everything back together, it should work now!
One note, I tried having both the HDD and the SSD installed, but the SSD no longer shows up in the BIOS. so I left it as is.
Alright, I have a little update on my pretty 5920(well, it has gotten prettier)
ohh, I love the LED’s lights~~
I can’t finish all these today, I need to get some sleep, perhaps I can get up tomorrow or the next day and finish this off, once it is done, I will fill in the gaps I have left unexplained. (to be honest, I can’t find a source with a picture clear enough about the R364 bridge, or has explained clearly)
As a matter of fact, I finished it today, I was waiting for Chinese new year, that gave me a couple of hours to work on this. Yeah, my Aspire One is back on running Windows 7 again!
I have challenged tnkgrl’s 1.8′ HDD mod
Happy Chinese New year